![]() Give it a good knotting and then use fray check to help lock it in place.Īnd voila! You’re done! How easy was that! You don’t need a special hand sewing needle for the leather tab – simply pass your needle through the already existing hole in the outer corner of your tab that was created by the top stitching you made earlier. Fold it in half again and thread your needle. To tack by hand, take a good length of nice weight thread and fold in half. ![]() Either way will work just fine, however I prefer to stitch mine by hand. Tack in place on both sides of the zipper tape by machine or hand. Slide your ring onto the zipper (I’m using a gate ring) and fold the tab back approximately 1″ (2.5cm) so that it touches the wrong side of the zipper. Sew around the outside of the square with whatever machine foot works best for you (I went with a zipper foot) using a narrow 1/8″ (0.3cm) seam allowance. Vinyl, cork or any non fraying material is easiest to use, however you can also use fabric if you like (remember to account for a seam allowance if you choose to use fabric instead).įold your piece of leather in half, cap the end of the zipper with it and clip in place. Cut it so that it’s slightly wider than your prepared zipper by 1 /2″ (3.8cm) long. If you can’t get that close, do what works best for you and your machine.Įven though this is a “tab-less” zipper end, you’re actually still putting a tab on it you just don’t notice it because of the way it’s finished.įor this part I find it best to use a scrap of leather. I like to start my top stitching at the end of the zipper tail and stop about an 1” (2.5cm) from the opening of the bag using a 3.5 -4 stitch length. I ended up using my left and right zipper foot. ![]() It can be a little tricky to sew such a narrow area but try out different machine feet until you find something that works well. Once you have completed step #22, STOP, and continue as follows.įold one side of the zipper tape under to the wrong side and top stitch in place. ![]()
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